Within the shadow of Moscow’s landmark Radisson Royal Lodge, and proper within the coronary heart of historic and enterprise district of the town, lies the two-storey Matryoshka restaurant by Maison Dellos. It opened its doorways in February 2017 underneath the supervision of Vlad Piskunov – an creator of assorted cookbooks and presenter of quite a few culinary reveals on TV, in addition to the person behind the historic and gastronomical “Moscow Dinners” challenge.
The inside design of the restaurant design is impressed by the 1920s, the period of so-called “industrial palaces” that have been as soon as in style in London and New York.
The inside of the “Matryoshka” harmoniously combines trendy trend traits, parts of antiquity and industrial motifs equivalent to custom-made cast-iron stairs and handrails, lamps and aged tiles, and an vintage fire and boiserie. There are additionally massive panoramic home windows with views of the Moskva River and an open kitchen.
The bar has been reclaimed from a French pharmacy and is headed by Denis Kryazhev, the chef mixologist of Maison Dellos – top-of-the-line mixologists in Russia, and winner of Diageo Reserve World Class 2012 and Bartender of the Yr 2013 in response to the GQ journal. The wine record consists of about 200 gadgets with the principle concentrate on the older wines from the northern areas and, after all, an awesome number of Russian wines.
The menu is centred round the perfect merchandise from totally different elements of Russia, equivalent to white salmon from Yakutia, Zander from Volga River, salmon from Murmansk, black nut from the Caucasus, cloudberries from Arkhangelsk, Altai honey and so forth. The emphasis is on meals from the 19th and 20th centuries – native Russian produce and conventional Russian delicacies, while on the similar time, with a up to date contact making it sill related in the present day.
The dumplings – one thing I hadn’t beforehand related to Russian delicacies – have been an actual spotlight for me. Pictured are pork dumplings and scallop dumplings; the latter, filled with Sakhalin scallops, sea kale and oyster sauce, have been significantly good.
Lard (salo) with onion, brown bread and mustard was additionally on supply. I attempted it once more however nonetheless want some convincing with this one!
For my essential I had the ‘lamb rack with porridge’ – rack of lamb ‘with buckwheat porridge, roots and soaked-baked apples’, with the sweetness of the apples complementing the dish nicely.
I forewent dessert, however the menu included temptations equivalent to igingerbread with berries and curd cheese’ and ‘apple-almond cake with ice cream’.